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GUIDED TOUR

1

Cowes Griffin

Stage 12

Cowes St Mary the Virgin

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ABOUT THIS PLACE

Nash’s Extraordinary Tower and the Price of Honour Introduction St Mary the Virgin is the oldest ecclesiastical foundation on the walk and the most architecturally deceptive. Most of the visible church dates from 1867, but its unusual west tower was designed by John Nash half a century earlier as a Ward family mausoleum. In the churchyard lies John Sutton, killed in an 1817 duel in Northwood Park after an argument at an inn. A church rebuilt around one surviving tower The first recorded church here dates from 1657. Joseph Richards enlarged it eastwards in 1811. In 1815–16 George Ward of neighbouring Northwood House funded a new west tower by John Nash, the architect whose later career included Regent Street, the Royal Pavilion at Brighton and work on Buckingham Palace. Nash did not design the whole church visitors see today. In 1867 Arthur Cates demolished and rebuilt almost everything except the tower. His church has a four-bay stone-rubble nave, slate roof, clerestory, wooden galleries and an apsidal chancel. Polychromatic brickwork enriches the interior. The south porch preserves a sundial dated 1762, a fragment older than the Victorian rebuilding around it. The Graeco-Egyptian tower The tower is difficult to classify at a glance because it is not conventionally Gothic. It tapers slightly and uses a Graeco-Egyptian language, with oblong bell openings framed by short Greek Doric columns, a flat parapet and four plain acroteria. Ward intended it as his family mausoleum, and memorial tablets survive inside. Its design belongs to the early nineteenth-century fascination with ancient architectural languages beyond the standard Classical and Gothic repertoire. Beside Northwood House’s later Egyptian decorative interiors, the tower forms part of a local landscape in which the Ward family displayed taste, learning and status through architecture. Headstones that speak in symbols The churchyard contains eighteenth-century stones decorated with cherubs, urns, skulls, crossbones and hourglasses. Early nineteenth-century examples add sunrays and chest tombs. These were not random ornament. They formed a visual vocabulary of mortality, resurrection and passing time, legible to generations who encountered such symbols repeatedly. One grave carries a more specific warning. John Sutton, aged twenty-two, was a passenger on the ship Grace, waiting in Cowes Roads before travelling to join military ventures in South America. On an evening in December 1817 he drank at the Dolphin Inn with Major Orlando Lockyer and other passengers. Lockyer took offence at something Sutton said and issued a challenge. They met in Northwood Park the next morning with seconds. At the signal, Lockyer fired. The ball passed through Sutton’s heart and killed him immediately. Lockyer and the seconds fled. A coroner’s jury at the Dolphin returned a verdict of wilful murder against all three. The contemporary newspaper account is brutally concise. Later retellings add gestures, apologies and dialogue, but those details vary and should not be treated as certain. What is verified is bleak enough: a social insult became a formal encounter, and a young man preparing for adventure overseas was instead buried within yards of where the walk now ends. Honour and its consequences Duelling culture claimed to defend personal honour, but its rituals often converted wounded pride into irreversible violence. Sutton’s grave makes that contradiction physical. The participants followed a code designed to display courage; the result was a body, a criminal verdict and flight. Why this matters to Cowes and the Isle of Wight St Mary’s gathers four centuries of Cowes history into one site: a seventeenth-century foundation, Georgian expansion, Nash’s architectural experiment, Victorian rebuilding, the Ward family and a fatal duel. It is an apt final stage because it refuses a simple ending. Faith, wealth, beauty, pride and mortality occupy the same ground.

PASSWORD FRAGMENT 12

The duel was supposedly fought to defend a gentleman’s reputation, yet it ended in death, flight and a verdict of wilful murder. What one word names the ideal the participants claimed to protect?

Stage 12

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. Honour
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